Wine of the week: Souped-up

13 July 2014 - 02:03 By Joanne Gibson
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It's tricky to match wine with soup for a number of reasons, the main one being that they're both liquids.

Unlike food that needs to be cut up and chewed, soup doesn't need any lubrication and will make most wines seem diluted.

Sometimes an older, richer white wine can work, as can a sweet wine, because both will have more body and mouthfeel than younger, drier wines. But arguably the best match of all is fortified wine, which is wine that has had a distilled spirit (usually brandy) added during or after the fermentation process, and whose higher alcohol and residual sugar add enough weight to balance the soup.

From deglazing my pans with sherry-style wines to braising lamb shanks in SA's answer to port, I've been having some fun with fortifieds in my kitchen (as well as at the table) this winter. Cream of chicken soup made with a dash of Monis Pale Dry sherry took on some delicious roasted hazelnut notes, while a puréed butternut soup worked best with the sweeter candied citrus and almond flavours of the Monis Medium Cream (both R79 a bottle).

But my pièce de résistance so far has been a rich French onion soup into which I poured half a cup of Badsberg Red Muscadel 2013, recently named SA's best muscadel, with its cherry liqueur and caramel flavours.

At R55 a bottle it's not sacrilegious to do so, which might have been the case with the port-style wine I briefly considered, Muratie's Ben Prins Cape Vintage 2009 at R170 a bottle. Made from four traditional Portuguese varieties, all hand-harvested from a single vineyard planted in 1965, the Ben Prins packs a punch of mulberries, fruitcake and dark chocolate, best for fireside sipping after supper.

  • The annual Breedekloof Soetes & Soup Festival takes place next weekend (July 18-19). Wineries in Rawsonville, Slanghoek, Goudini and Breede River will be serving warming mugs of home-made soup accompanied by their award-winning dessert wines.
  • Simply buy a wine glass, enamel mug and coupon booklet for R70 at the first winery you visit. www.breedekloof.com
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